SpiffMAME Diary

Update April 30th, 2005: The information found on this page describes the early progress of building my MAME Cabinet SpiffMAME. At this point a lot of changes have happened to the machine from the time when I stopped updating the diary. I have, however, decided to keep this page as a reminiscence of the history of this project.

June 15th, 2001

Got the machine today. It is an old Space Panic cabinet, slightly modified and in a not too great condition. There are quite a lot of cigarette burns on the top and on the plexiglass in front of the screen. The plexi was turned upside down, and as long as no light gets in from the back, you actually don't notice. I don't know yet if I will replace it or just leave it upside down. Most important though, the mechanical parts work, especially the coin units. Unfortunately this machine only has one joystick and two fire buttons, and the joystick is not too nice (it seems to have been burnt or something).

The machine came with Gyruss, and since the original connector didn't fit, some nasty wiring had been done. I'm planning on finding a connector that fits the Gyruss-game and put it inside, to allow the option of putting in the old game, even though it should run equally well on MAME.

Still this old machine cost me and a couple of friends several hours. I never played Gyruss on an arcade machine before, and controls are slightly different from what I remember on the C-64, but it has been a lot of fun to get the nice nostalgic feeling of an old arcade machine.

I found the maintainance manual for Gyruss on the web (as PDF) at stormaster.com.

June 16th, 2001

Didn't spend much time on the machine today. I found an old connector that should work for the Gyruss game, and looked a little at the wiring. I also found an old 4-digit resettable counter, that I might try to hook up to the coin count output, but since I only have one and I don't know if MAME supports it at all, I don't know if it is worth the effort.

I went to the hardware store and got a lock for the back panel. Too bad I won't be able to have a single key for all three locks (coin door, coin box/safe and the back panel), but I guess it will be alright anyways. I have to find out some way of making a new top for the back panel, since it was missing when I got the machine.

June 18th, 2001

Went to the hardware store to get some black spray paint. I sanded down the coin door and gave it several layers. (It had small scratches and rust, so going all the way was quite nice. And since there wasn't much else I could do on the project right now...)

June 20th, 2001

I have been spending a lot of time browsing arround the web lately to find information about the original Space Panic, Gyruss and the options I have with MAME. Concerning the cabinet, I have come to the conclusion that I will sand down the whole thing and paint it black. The condition of the side art is quite poor anyway and with the cigarette burns (especially on the white top), I figure it will look much better all black. Since the control panel was totally re-made and not too good, that will have to be replaced entirely as well. The descriptions of other MAME cabinet projects I have found on the web, all seem to use buttons and joysticks from happcontrols.com. I spend some time looking at their different products, and it seems quite nice and affordable. Still I wrote a mail to my cousin in USA, since he used to work in an arcade, and might have some information or contacts (no pun intended). Let's see.

As I said, the control panel will have to be entirely rebuild, and I don't think much of the current configuration will be of any use. Because of the edges on the cabinet, there is no possibility to make a control panel that is wider than the machine, which I have seen some people do to make room for four players, but most of the games I want to play is either one or two players, so I think that is what I will stick to anyway. If I decide to order from Happ, I will order at least one extra joystick and a handfull of buttons, since spare parts for this will be nice to have (thus being able to change right away in case something breaks), and I might make more control panels, to have the ability to change to some more suitable controls. I looked at some solutions with spinners, trackballs and steering wheels/flight yokes, but I don't think I will want that right away. Perhaps some of these options could be implemented in another control panel, but I kinda like the limitations of the machine. Never mind the few games it won't be able to run. If I get som more room one day, I might even build a totally separate machine with one or more of these, but that will not be until I move somewhere with some more space, and probably not until I have gotten my juke-box build. (This is a very old idea I got: Buy an old jukebox and restore it, putting an MP3-player inside).

I downloaded MAME and got it running under Linux. Originally I wanted the box to run Linux, since that is my OS of choice, but on the other hand, I do not know if it will be as easy to set up for the arcade monitor, and since ArcadeOS supports the resolutions used by the video games, this will probably be the way I want to go. Further more I think DOS should be able to boot up a little faster and doing a little hacking to get the monitor to first switch on when the correct video mode has been set up, should be a snack. I might still have the disk set up for dual boot with Linux, for easier maintainability. I am really starting to wonder what size of disk I should choose. If I want to run some of the NeoGeo-games, it seems I should settle for quite a large amount of storage. On the other hand, that would mean not being able to run real DOS (Not the crappy windows command prompt stuff), since partition sizes are quite limited with FAT16. Hmm, I guess it should be possible to have more than one partition and setting MAME's rom path for several locations. Just to get started, I think I will settle for a motherboard, CPU, memory and a power supply. I should be able to finde a nice PCI graphics card and an old SoundBlaster ISA card somewhere in the junk.

June 21th, 2001

Looked arround for a computer for the project and came to the conclusion that AMD Duron is getting so cheap, it's not really worth spending too much time looking for other (older) parts. The expensive part of this is the mother-board, but I would much rather spend some extra money on some hardware that might be a little overkill, and having more games run nicely, than later being miserable because I spent the money on a machine that can't really handle it. I think I will order the stuff tomorrow, so I can finally get going with the project. As I see it there are now three parts of the project, and I plan on doing them in this order:

  1. Get the computer and install MAME, first with my old 17"-monitor, then hooking it up to the 19"-arcade monitor in the cabinet.
  2. Making the control panel and hooking it up with a keyboard hack, to experience the power of nostalgia filling the room. All the old games in the living room, and with the real nice feel of Good Old Days™.
  3. Brushing up the cabinet, or rather sanding it down and then brushing (painting) it up. Final touches to make the gaming experience complete. A nice MAME-marquee and arcade finish.

Breaking the project down in these three steps, I will be able to get the most rewarding experience, since setting up the computer will enable me to play the games again. Then when MAME is up and running, I can begin with the controls, and starting to really enjoy all the new old games. Then to get the nice feeling of achievement, I will make it all look nice.

I can't start with the controls anyway, because I would first have to order the joysticks and buttons, and since I'm going to USA in a couple of weeks to visit my aunt and uncle (and several cousins), I might want to order the stuff to their place and save the shipping all the way to Denmark. Also, there wouldn't be much point in getting the controls working before the computer is in there. Of course I could hook it up to the old Gyruss game, but the amount of time for this compared to just getting the PC running in there (being able to run Gyruss), would be wasted. Actually when the PC is running, I might do the keyboard hack, to wire the controls of the old panel up to the PC, just to check it out. With the joystick and two buttons, it should be possible to play at least a handfull of the games. Since the joystick seems to be 4-way, probably Frogger, Donkey Kong, Pacman and of course Gyruss will probably be the ones to go for first.

Aug 9, 2001

Got back from USA today, and I got all the parts (38 buttons and 3 joysticks). I ordered everything from Happ Controls before I left. At first there seemed to be a slight misunderstanding: They sent my order to their european headquaters, presumably because they noticed the billing address was in Denmark. When I asked them why (since the shipping address was in New York state), they apologized and told me they would send the order back to USA. When I arrived in USA, the stuff hadn't showed up, and it didn't show up for the next week or so. I decided to try to get a hold of Happ Controls, and it turned out that the order had been lost somewhere going from the european headquater to USA. I reordered the whole thing, this time by fax and within 4 days it arrived.

Even though my experience with Happ Controls did not turn out too well, the products are certainly a nice quality, and the prices are very fair. Assuming that the minor glitch I experienced was just a coincidence, I would recommend Happ Controls to everyone who wants to work with a similair project. It also seemed that they had no problem dealing with individuals (as I first expected they might only want to do business with companies).

Still haven't been able to get a hold of a motherboard, but a friend of mine offered me a PII-333MHz, which I will probably go for. It should still be possible to upgrade at a later time, if it does not satisfy my needs.

Aug 13, 2001

I got the motherboard today. I guess now all I need is a set of computer speakers and a lot of time to finish the project.

Aug 15, 2001

Went to the hardware store today. I got a piece of 19mm plywood for the monitor frame. The old frame was made in a U-shape rather than being closed. This made the construction somewhat unstable if I should want to mount the monitor horizontal. Also, the old frame wasn't square, so it wasn't even possible to mount it horizontal. I got the guy in the store to cut it to my meassurements (59x59cm). I also got a piece of 12mm particle board for the panel missing on the back, and a piece of 12mm plywood to make the control-panel from. I got various hinges and latches for the panels and a hole-saw for the buttons.

When I got home, I couldn't resist going to the workshop in the basement and start working on the new pieces. I started by making the back panel. I mounted a frame of plywood on the back to make it a bit more stable. When I wanted to put in the lock I got, it turned out I was lucky: the hole-saw I got for the buttons was exactly the right size for the lock as well. The back panel turned out really nice. A leftower piece if particle board was used to fix the back of the coin box, which had been missing since I got the machine. It really wasn't anything important, but I want the machine to look ince inside as well.

Sep 1, 2001

I have been very busy with other projects for the past two weeks, so unfortunately I haven't gotten any further with the project. First I have been programming assembler for an Atmel microcontroller as part of a project for a datalogger. Then my old work called me up and asked me to help them with some minor updates on a PHP-based web-site. It turned out that these updates weren't so minor. First of all it was written in a very complicated way and not documented at all. Secondly the server they set up for me to work on was a completely different configuration, and I have been spending a lot of time setting up the server instead of updating the pages. Damn :(

I covered the monitor frame with some black cardboard to make it look nicer from the front. The cardboard is just glued to the plywood frame. This seemed like the best way to attach it. I tried to put some small clamps/staples on there to hold it in place, but it didn't work out very well, and since the glue seemed to hold it in place nicely, I decided not to spend more time on it.

I layed out the computer on a scrap piece of particle board and figured out a way to mount it inside the cabinet. This means no computer case, just the motherboard, power supply and harddrive mounted on the particle board. Since it is getting a bit late now, I think I will wait until tomorrow with cutting the board and mounting it in there, but at least I spend a little time concidering how to get on with the project.

Sep 2, 2001

I mounted the computer on the board. I made a nice layout with the power supply, motherboard and harddrive. With some small metal braces I was able to mount the whole thing.

I then mounted some left over pieces of wood inside the cabinet, to support the computer. A small brace/lock makes it possible to take the entire computer out of the cabinet, yet securing it during normal operation.

Before I got the motherboard, I found out that it supports wake-up on keyboard, and I figured that mapping one of the buttons on the control panel to a wakeup and having a special menu entry in ArcadeOS for powering down the system would make the whole issue of power-on/off a lot easier. Unfortunately the BIOS was not able to have wake-up on a single key. In fact only Ctrl-F1 thru Ctrl-F12 were available. I still decided to go for this approach. This will mean having to press two buttons, but then again this might prevent too much problems with the machine being turned on accidently.

Sep 12, 2001

Downloaded MAME for DOS and ArcadeOS, and got it set up. A new version .54 of MAME came out, so I decided to check it out. I found a version optimized for PPro, and it seems to work very well, except some of the games that used to work mysteriously does not any more.

I spent a great deal of time trying to make ArcadeOS call a little program to power off the ATX power supply. When it finally powered off, ArcadeOS decided to remove it from the menu when I booted up again. It thought the program had crashed, and thus removed it from the list. Further more I was not able to have this power-off in the same menu as all the games. I had to add a separate "emulator" for poweroff, which made it a little complicated. I finally decided to put poweroff in the end of autoexec.bat, after ArcadeOS exits. To still have the ability to set up various things, I used choice to ask if you are sure you want to power off. The delay is set to 1 sec, so you have to be very fast to hit the key before the machine is turned off. I will use one of the service-buttons inside the coin-door when I get done with the control panel.

Sep 14, 2001

Mapped the matrix of an old keyboard I had lying around. I found various sources of information regarding blocking and ghosting, and unfortunately I discovered that the controller for my keyboard implemented blocking. This meant that I would not be able to work arround the ghosting problem with a handfull of diodes. I decided to try and lay out the keyboard in such a way that the keys would not cause blocking.

Sep 15, 2001

I started the woodwork for the control panel today. The panel is made from 12mm plywood and has an aluminium frame on the top to hold the tainted plexiglass in front of the monitor in place. I used a 29mm cup-drill (hole-saw) for the buttons, and it worked out quite nicely. The control panel has two 8-way joysticks (Happ's Super Joystick) and 6 buttons for each player. Further more there is an exit-button and the one- and two-player buttons on the front (vertical) side of the panel. With the very limited size of the panel, it turned out that there was no way it would be possible to fit any more buttons in there. I designed a little circuit to enable the 1/2-player buttons to give credits as well. I know that you can just bind one of the credit keys in MAME to the same key as P1, but since some games have wierd restrictions on which of the coin-inputs can be used for a certain number of credits, I might want to change this mapping on a per-game basis, and thus having an easy way of enabling free-play is not just a matter of changing the general MAME keyboard layout.

Sep 16, 2001

Put in the buttons and joysticks and wired the whole thing up. The wiring ends in a 50-pole SUB-D connector, which in turn will connect it to the keyboard controller. This way it should be easy to make another control panel, as I planned. Hopefully the keys I used will not cause blocking, but this has not been fully tested yet.

Sep 17, 2001

I got a 150x598mm piece of clear plexiglass today. This is for the control panel. My idea is to put the plexiglass over the wooden control panel and have a piece of paper with the overlay in between.

I also borrowed a heat-gun from my school and managed to bend the plexiglass in the shape of the control panel. The process took almost two hours, since the (tiny, lousy) heat-gun was only able to heat a little piece of the plexiglass at the time. It didn't turn out quite as nicely as I had hoped, but I think screwing the buttons in tight will hold it in place. Also, there are a few spots where the plexiglass "bubbled up" because of too much heat. It's a pity, but on the other hand, nobody will notice when the game is running. If I should ever decide to redo the control panel, I think I will find a company that can deliver the bent plexiglass to my specifications.

Cutting holes in the plexiglass was no problem at all. I was worried about the plexiglass splintering during the cutting, but that did not happen at all. I used the hole-saw, but without the drill-bit in the center. I then clamped the plexiglass to the wooden control panel and drilled from the back of the panel. Work the drill for short periods of time to avoid heating the blade, thus melting the plexiglass.

I surfed the net for a couple of hours to find some information about the monitor in my cabinet. It turned out to be a Hantarex 900, but I was not able to find any service manual for it. I did find a couple of other Hantarex manuals, and came to the conclusion that the one I have actually DOES have separate sync signals (horizontal and vertical), but the horizontal sync line can also be used for composite sync (and is for the arcade games). This makes my task of making a circuit for combining the sync signals much easier. I am aware of people telling you to just connect the H- and V-sync signals to get a working composite sync, and some saying you should XOR the signals. Just connecting the signals does not seem to be too nice to the video card (unless it is open-collector logic, but who knows), and I can certainly not come up with any explanation why this should yield the same signal as XOR'ing the two syncs. I tried looking at the sync signal from the original Gyruss game with an oscilloscope. I never got arround to looking at the output from the graphics card, so I really can't tell you which approach to use for combining the sync. If one finds out what logic function should be carried out, it shouldn't be too hard though, since both the graphics card and the monitor uses TTL-level sync signals.

Sep 18, 2001

Wired up the keyboard controller. The control panel seemed to work, after binding the appropriate keys in MAME. Warning: if you accidently unbind the "UI Select" key in MAME, you cannot change the keyboard mappings, and have to delete the default.cfg file and start over. Since I have disassembled the control panel I wasn't able to fully test it.

I also made a small service control panel inside the coin-door to the right. It has a button connected in parallel with the coin switch to give a credit and a switch to enable the circuit that gives a credit when 1UP or 2UP is pressed (free play). Four buttons are mapped to the for service-buttons for MAME. Since most games only have one service-button (if any), it is possible to use these for other features on a per-game basis. This could be save, load, pause or cheat, if that hi-score is really important ;-)

The panel has three more buttons, mapped to some nice keys in MAME: tab, tilde and enter. Since the UI-keys are set up to use the joystick, it should be possible to configure MAME without the need of a kayboard. I have however left the keyboard connector inside the coin-door to allow hooking up a keyboard if the need should arise.

The last button on the service control panel is connected to the powerswitch input on the motherboard, just in case something wierd happens and it is not possible to power on using the keyboard input, or if the poweroff program does not work for some wierd reason.

All these buttons and the switches on the coin mechanism connects to a DB-25 connector, which in turn is wired to the keyboard controller. By disconnecting this connector and the DB-50 connector for the control panel, the keyboard controller can be taken out of the cabinet. This also allows me to make a cable to hook up the control panel, the coin inputs and service-buttons to the original Gyruss game, or any other PCB i might get a hold of. You could say I made my own "JAMMA"-standard.

Sep 20, 2001

I spent the entire night creating graphics for the control panel overlay. I had hoped to find some nice control panel overlays on the net, and being able to use some graphics from these, but it turned out that there was no good generic overlays. Although game-specific overlays look very nice, it dosn't quite work out with the multi-purpose machine with MAME. Further more the overlays I found were quite lousy resolution, so I wouldn't be able to get a nice overlay without drawing it myself. I ended up with a very plain overlay: Black background with a red and orange border. I put some blue arrows arround the joysticks, but they are almost covered by the black disc of plastic at the base of the joystick. The three buttons on the front have (ESC/1UP/2UP) have a little text next to them, although the 1- and 2-player buttons have icons on them. On the right side of the front of the panel, I put the MAME-logo, which looks very nice. I will use this logo for the marquee as well when I get to that part.

Sep 21, 2001

I printed the control panel overlay on a friends Epson ink-jet printer (thanks Nicolaj). It was printed on glossy photo-paper and with the 1440x1440dpi resolution, the result was incredible. I cut the three sheets with a very sharp knife and also cut the holes for the buttons and joysticks.

Sep 23, 2001

Today I finished cutting the control panel overlay. I got the overlay mounted under the plexiglass and lined it up. Then screwing the buttons in to hold the plexiglass in place. It turned out very nicely. The final task to hold the plexiglass in place was to drill a couple of holes for some small wood screws. Drilling the holes in the plexiglass was no problem, but when I wanted to countersink the screws, a piece of the the plexiglass broke off. Word of advice: I had no problems making holes in the plexiglass, but do not attempt to drill the holes larger, once they are made, or the whole thing may break. I glued the small piece back on, and decided not to countersink the rest of the screws. Since they are along the sides of the control panel, they shouldn't be in the way during play.

Oct, 2001

Discovered a lot of problems while trying to hook up the original arcade monitor to the Matrox Millennium-card in the machine. The monitor seems to be getting out of focus every other second or so, and I really don't want to destroy it, so I haven't left it on for longer periods. A friend from school called me and said he had a friend who had about 15 old arcade-machines, which were gonna be thrown away, so perhaps I can get a new monitor from this guy.

I meassured the output from the video-card with a scope, and managed to make the sync exactly the same as the output from the original Gyruss-game. However the graphics did not display properly (it must be the Matrox-driver). I also tried an old S3 Virge graphics card, which seemed to generate the correct graphics, but certainly not the sync frequencies i told it to. Finally I tried with a RivaTNT2, but was unable to get any picture at all. I didn't do much testing, so I probably just overlooked something (perhaps the BIOS setting). To make sure the output to the monitor was exactly the same as what comes from the original Gyruss-game, I made a sync-combiner. From my debugging of the video-signals with a scope, it seems the video-card as well as the monitor uses negative sync, and the appropriate logic gate to use in this case was an AND-gate. I have no clue why most people seem to suggest either twisting the wires together or using an XOR-gate, and I certainly cannot se how an XOR-gate can yield the same result as twisting the wires together.

However the correct video-signal still did not give good results. The monitor was still getting out of focus, and I discovered that the focus wasn't even that good with the original Gyruss game.

Jan, 2002

I tried several times to get in touch with the guy with all the old machines, but although he hasn't told me I couldn't have a new monitor, we haven't been able to make an appointment, so perhaps I should try to get my own monitor fixed.

Jan 30, 2002

I finally found a service manual for a Hantarex MTC900 monitor. Unfortunately there exists two versions of this monitor with completely different main boards, but the other boards are the same. The manual I found was of course not the right for my monitor. Since I had spend several hours trying to find the correct manual on the Internet, I decided that I probably wasn't gonna be able to locate it, and started the somewhat cumbersome task of finding out which capacitors had been used.

Although Happ Controls seems to have a Cap-kit for my monitor, I am not quite sure if it fits exactly my monitor (remember there are two versions with exactly the same model number). Furthermore I seem to remember something about a minimum order of 25$ from Happ, so it will probably be easier to just find out which caps I need and order them from an electronics surplus store.

Jan 31, 2002

I ordered the caps. Unfortunately they were rather expensive, especially because I had to order five of each, even if I only needed one or two.

Feb 1, 2002

Got the caps today and changed them. What an improvement. The picture was crystal-clear (well, at least as clear as you could expect from an old NTSC-monitor).

NOTE: Remember that the monitor MUST be discharged before installing a cap-kit. The picture-tube can hold a lethal voltage (25kV) and not knowing what you do is DEFINITELY NOT a good idea when working with this kind of voltage. I will not go into details about the discharge-procedure or installing the cap-kit. There are several good pages on this subject, and nothing really I can add. I am not responsible for any damage to equipment or persons that may occur from discharging (or perhaps from NOT discharging) your monitor.

Having said this, I highly recommend installing a cap-kit. I can't tell you how nice the picture looked after installing the cap-kit, but it was definently worth it, even though I ended up paying 400 kr (40-50$) for the components.

I have been getting a couple of highscores in Gyruss since the monitor was fixed. It has been on for a couple of days, just to make sure it is perfectly burn-in tested :)

Feb 15, 2002

YES! It seems that getting new caps for the monitor also solved the focus-problem. I spend a couple of hours playing with the RivaTNT2-card, and managed to get a nice picture on the arcade monitor. Now I just need a little hardware on the parallel port to turn on the monitor when the video-mode has been set.

How nice to be able to play something other than Gyruss on my machine. What about a nice game of frogger :)

I installed a couple of PC-speakers in the top of the cabinet. Originally there was only one speaker in the cabinet, all the way at the bottom. This is now being used as a sub-woofer, with really nice results.

NOTE: Sep 15, 2002. I have been quite busy with a lot of different things (mainly school), and this page has not been updated for half a year now. The entries below are as far as I can remember, just to "fill in the blanks".

Feb, 2002

Switched to AdvanceMAME and AdvanceMENU. Although there were a few problems trying to set up everything, the video-options in AdvanceMAME are far superiour to the standard mame, especially with a regular arcade monitor. Using AdvanceMENU instead of ArcadeOS was mostly a choice of being able to use the same set of video-modes. Also, ArcadeOS is no longer being developed, and AdvanceMENU offers a lot more flexibility, although it is a bit harder to set up.

After getting everything up and running, I moved the machine into the dorm kitchen, and it quickly became a huge success. There are still some things that need to be fixed. Most important is a circuit to turn on the monitor after the machine has booted and set the video-mode. At this stage, I have to turn on the machine by a switch in the coin door, and wait for the "Let's Rock.."-sound from AdvanceMENU, before turning on the monitor. This means that I have to turn on and off the machine, whenever my friends want to play.

July, 2002

Got a new motherboard. The machine is now a Celeron 533 with 256MB Ram. I also changed to a 17GB harddrive instead of the 1.2GB that I have used until now.

I got a complete MAME0.61 ROM-set from Lennart Wahlberg, who is a member of the MAME ROM burning team. Incredible service! I had the ROMS (8 CD's) within a week after I mailed the CD's. Thanks.

With all the new ROMs installed, I finally spent the time to make a circuit to turn on the monitor. When the system boots, it loads the vga.exe-util (part of the AdvanceCab package), to set the video-mode to something the monitor can handle. Then the monitor is turned on by setting some bits on the parallel port. This happens about 15 seconds after the button has been pressed. A nice MAME-logo is shown during bootup, and AdvanceMenu is ready about 30 seconds after poweron.

Aug, 2002

I finally got arround to painting the cabinet. The process took a couple of days, sanding, priming and finally painting. I borrowed a professional air-brush and compressor from a friend. The cabinet has gotten several layers of black car-paint, and looks very nice. Of course there are always a couple of things you can still work on, but for now, I'm quite satisfied.

When putting everything back together, I noticed that the monitor would not fit into the cabinet when mounted horizontally. This is because the deflection coils had been re-wired so the picture is upside-down. Although MAME and AdvanceMENU can flip the screen, I decided to wire the monitor back, because servicing the machine is a lot easier when the DOS-screen is not upside-down. This lead to a couple of hours of dispair: I thought I had burned the monitor after flipping the screen. Fortunately it turned out that the problem was a little connector on the back of the picture-tube, which had fallen out. This caused the monitor to go totally out of focus. When I finally found out, and plugged it back in, it worked perfectly, and the picture was flipped. Phew!

All I need now is to make a nice marquee (with a MAME-logo), so I can turn on the marquee-light. The tainted plexiglass in front of the marquee and over the monitor are the only things that are in a not-too-good condition. I might try to get hold of som new, but I am quite busy at the moment, so this is not top priority.

Last updated: 2005.04.30